Seaguar (in the yellow/blue box way back when lol) has been my favorite, but the it got too pricey so I dropped down to their red label which is more economical. I don't normally use it as a main line, since only the front of the is where it's needed most instead of doing doing wrapped around on a reel's spool. I will lay on about 2-3 times a max cast to delay retying from forced breakoffs (e.g., when you get your line stuck) that would come with shorter leaders. I fish a lot of rip rap and rocks when drop shotting so this idea was born out of that.
Interesting! I normally use a 15 to 20-foot fluorocarbon leader so I won't have to re-rig every time I break off, however I never thought of using 35 to 40 feet. Sounds logical and I might try it. I drop shot on a lot of sharp rocks at Lake Powell. I've found fluorocarbon to be very abrasion resistant. Also, when fishing a lot of broken rock I've found that cylinder shape drop shot weights snag far less in the rocks than round or bell shaped weights.
Hi, Ed! I hear you about the leader. I did that too, but the number of breakoffs I was getting was taking up too much time re-tying so I said one day, screw this I'm going to put a max cast + so I don't have to retie so often.
I noticed that cylinder shaped also works very well, but because that also started getting pricey, I started using pencil lead, which is already cylindrical in shape. There is a special type of fishing pliers designed to not only cut the pencil lead, but it can also punch a hole in the lead to which you can either tie the lead directly to the line or even use a swivel snap. Besides the major cost savings (a pound of coiled pencil lead is about $5 give or take) vs $5 for 6 cylinder leads barely a half pound, I have the ultimate in flexibility. For example, if my weight is too heavy, I could cut it down to size if I were lazy. I just simply unsnap my lead with a smaller one. If I get a chance, I will see if I can post a pic.